Magic mirror anleitung - phrase WhatWir nahmen die Datei und versuchen Sie es erneut Magic Mirror inicar, oder über einen Browser zu http: Allein die richtigen Bauteile zu finden, hat mich eine Menge Zeit, Nerven und nicht zuletzt ein kleines Vermögen gekostet. Hinterlasse einen Kommentar Cancel Reply. Über die Putty Konsole folgende Befehle ausführen: Only users with topic management privileges can see it. Hier erzähle ich, wie alles anfing, warum ich die Idee nicht erfunden, mich aber doch entschlossen habe, mit Freunden das Projekt glancr zu tonybet nfl. Aber ich habe wirklich nicht den blassesten Schimmer vom Programmieren. Wir werden ein Modul Magic Mirror interessant hinzufügen, eine, die gut mit dem Stil des Blogs geht, Ich konnte mein Gesicht waschen, wie ich sehe, wie mein Geschäft oder meine Smart Home? Über die Putty Konsole folgende Befehle ausführen: Smart wird tenis uživo Polizeispiegel allerdings erst, wenn man das Football world championship an einen Computer koppelt. Hatte den Pi via RemoteDesktop xrdp betrieben, und da ist die Ausgabe dann tatsächlich dann nicht slowakei vs wales sehen. Ich habe es wirklich versucht.
On my Windows 10 system, the menu looks like this:. When the program launches, click on the tiny folder icon to the right of the empty field, then browse to where your Raspbian Jessie image is located and select it.
Again, verify the drive letter to the right of that! Once completed, Eject the card. They simply yank them out.
That will signal any latent process to finish writing to the card or drive before unmounting it from the operating system. You are now ready to insert the card into your Raspberry Pi and boot it up for the first time.
Put the card into the slot on the bottom of the rpi, plug in your monitor cable, turn the monitor on. Whether you are using a wired or wireless keyboard and mouse, make sure those are plugged in, then plug in power to the rpi itself.
If all went well, it should boot straight into the graphical interface. I apologize but I forgot to take a screen capture of this, but in the upper menu, click on the Terminal icon.
It looks like a black monitor. This opens up a black terminal window, logged in as the pi user. We are now going to run through the basic configuration of the rpi itself.
This will result in a rather long post with lost of screen captures. Navigation is done with the arrow keys , the TAB key allows you to jump from the selection menu to the buttons on the bottom, and the space bar is used to select or un-select menu items.
This will instruct the rpi to resize the partition to use the full size of the card. This will configure your rpi to use the correct language, timezone, and others.
ISO only supports the first characters. Once again, when you finish that, it takes you back to the main menu.
The default is a standard UK, full size keyboard. I wanted to change mine to a US keyboard instead. By default the Generic key Intl PC version is selected.
Note the default UK settings:. Normally it does nothing, but it can be configured so that if you hit that combination, it instantly kills the X-Server and depending on the OS setup, will restart it fresh.
This was a more applicable when X11 was still in its infancy and things crashed a lot. Over the years, things became more stable, threads started getting removed from the main process, so applications could be killed and restarted without needing to completely kill the X-Server itself.
I have yet to have the X-Server on my rpi crash on me, ever. And if things really get completely bogged down, I just restart it remotely. This will set the correct channel frequencies available.
In the US, channels 1 through 11 are common. Channels 12 and 13 are allowed, but for low power only, and channel 14 is forbidden. For the rest of the world, channels are not restricted.
Step 3 Scroll down to Advanced Options and select it. Pick the second option, Hostname A2. Here you will give your rpi a name. You can change that.
Make sure you read the warning that pops up, then set the name to whatever you want. For example, I changed mine to magicpi … after all, it will be running MagicMiror!
I like having the SSH server running because it allows me to connect to the rpi from anywhere on my network using a terminal program.
In this case, I wanted mine turned on. If so, you need to enable the rpi to work with it. Scroll down to option 6, Enable Camera and turn it on.
It will ask if you want to restart to which you will say Yes of course. Tired of the mile long posts? As I noted earlier, I will be running my rpi wirelessly.
If you are physically connecting it to your network using a cable, you can skip this post. Step 2 At the bottom of the contents, add your network information.
Note the quotation marks as this is specially important if you have a space in your wireless network name. Same for the password part. Step 3 Time to reboot and make sure the rpi comes up and successfully connects to your wireless network.
If all went well, when the rpi reboots and comes back to the graphical desktop, in the upper right corner you should see a familiar blue WiFi icon.
And if you want to make double sure that it connected, you can open a Terminal window again, and type in ifconfig and look for the wlan0 section.
The specific private network that this rpi is connected to is in the If you are physically connecting the rpi to a network hub or router, you need to look at the eth0 section at the top.
Ready for some fun? This is but a small list of apps, but they are by far the biggest ones aside from the X-server itself. The df command will show you storage across the entire file system or it can be restricted with specific options.
The -k option shows the values in 1K block format, while the -h option refers to the human readable option, which prints the sizes in powers of Now, for all intents and purposes, this is just fine.
And in this case, I only removed the big space hogs that I know I will never use. Step 1 Remove unnecessary software packages. The command I used to remove all of them is: Let that run and remove all those packages.
Again, say Y es to the question:. Step 3 Moving on. You do that by entering the following commands: So why two separate commands?
The update command will refresh the mirror list and available packages from the distribution mirrors. This sets up the next command, upgrade , with the necessary files to compare against.
Then the upgrade command will compare all the packages that are currently installed with the mirror lists and show you all the ones that need to be upgraded.
You did say Y es to that, right? Step 4 The last thing we need to do is make sure the firmware on the rpi is current. The command for that is: I built the case pretty tight, to the point that it was actually difficult to seat one edge of the display.
I also wanted to use the speakers , so placed each speaker against the side of the case, about halfway up, and traced it with a pencil. I then drilled a half dozen poorly-aligned holes in two columns so that sound could escape the frame.
The speakers were easily screwed into the inside of the frame behind the holes. I kept the panel from falling through by just putting some nails through the wood, creating a shelf of sorts.
For the IR sensor, I just aligned it with one of the ventilation holes on the bottom of the case and held it in place with VHB tape.
To mount it to the wall, I did something similar to what Michael did, cutting two slots out of a piece of 1x3 and nailing it to the back of the frame.
I tilted it slightly so that when it was placed on its mounting bolts it would snug closer to the wall. Since this was going in a bathroom, I decided to apply a couple coats of polyurethane to keep the wood from being damaged by the water and humidity, just in case.
The TV mounted in the frame. The front of the TV is flush with the front of the frame, placing it as close to the mirror as possible.
I decided to go online, ordering my glass from www. For my roughly 3: I expect much of that was due to the need to build a special foam-filled box to transport it.
I got it in a tube that fits in a caulk gun. Still, this stuff is strong, and it had no problem holding the mirror in place.
I also used it to fill in the gaps between the monitor and the frame to ensure that no light leaked in from the back. The mastic itself is black and opaque, so it completely blocks any light where it is applied.
I spent a lot of time making sure both the back of the mirror and the screen were as clean as I could make them. Even scratches on the display are basically invisible once the mirror is mounted, as the vast majority of the screen is black.
I screwed up the alignment a bit, unfortunately. I was able to push it back to the right position, but this dragged mastic that was on the mirror across the face of the monitor but not onto the monitor itself, thankfully.
I also discovered just how sharp glass is, as I wound up getting faint cuts on two fingers while trying to push it into place.
I also painted the frame itself black while I was at it. The mirror resting in front of the framed TV. The frame and back of the mirror painted with black enamel to make the remaining parts of the mirror opaque.
After figuring out how to get the old mirror off the wall, I need to figure out how to mount the new one. The solution I came up with was to use two long wall anchors.
Since I needed the anchor screws to stick out of the wall, I placed two large washes and a nut on each screw. I then turned the screw as far into the wall as I thought it needed to go, and then tightened the nut against the washers to keep the anchors in place.
Now I had two studs to hang the mirror off of. The tricky part is actually getting both aligned with the slots in the back of the mirror.
I had to measure, push the screws around, carefully slide the mirror onto one screw, and then wobble it around until I found the other screw.
I think this taking it off the wall and putting it back on again is when I chipped the corner of the mirror. The mounting bar attached along the top of the frame.
The two notches will align with bolts anchored to the wall. The combination of drywall anchor, nut and washers that became the studs that the mirror hangs off of.
For the mirror I had gotten the cheaper simple glass, not tempered glass. This wound up being a mistake, as normal glass is relatively brittle.
I went with normal glass because I was more worried about damaging tempered glass, as once hit hard enough tempered glass will just disintegrate into a pile of glass pebbles, and I had thought that I could get away with more mistakes with the plain glass.
The chip in the mirror was small, but still pretty annoying, so we decided to build a rustic metal frame for it. I used my oxyacetylene welding gear to create a crude frame from some flat iron I bought at Home Depot.
The idea was to leave the frame plain and unpainted. It was glued to the mirror with some simple mirror mastic from Home Depot.
Without the frame, you had a piece of glass hanging in space with some info displayed through it, which was pretty cool. After much deliberation, I ordered another expensive two way mirror.
This time I got it tempered , which added some cost and manufacturing time but significantly improved durability, plus if it is ever shattered it will disintegrate into small, relatively harmless pebbles instead of large dangerous shards.
Getting the old glass off was not easy. The mastic was slightly gummy, but very strong. I wound up using an oscillating saw to cut the mastic, then prying it out with a pry bar.
This required enough force that it shattered the old mirror glass. As I pulled it out I was able to slide a knife between the glass and the frame and cut away more of the mastic.
I threw the old glass and frame in the trash. After finally moving the mirror, I decided not to glue the new glass directly to the frame. I wanted something I could easily remove if the need arose.
I bought two pieces of slotted angle iron from Home Depot, cut them down to a few inches less than the mirror height with an angle grinder with a cutting disc, and screwed them into the side of the mirror frame.
The weight of the frame ensured that the wings would stick to the glass as expected. After a few hours, I used black enamel paint to again cover the back of the mirror glass.
This wound up not being enough, though, as the mastic caused the angle iron to sit just a bit off the surface, and the paint was too think to get into the gaps.
This caused light to leak through the back of the mirror. To solve this, I bought a tube of black caulk and used that to fill in the holes in the slotted angle iron, and the gaps around the edges.
I shined a flashlight through from the back to make sure it was truly opaque. This allowed me to apply a bead of caulk around the inside of the mirror where the frame would rest against it.
I also used some thin black air conditioning foam strips to further create an opaque seal between the frame and the mirror in order to avoid any other light leaks.
The frame just slides between the two wings, with screws going through the sides of the wings into the sides of the wooden frame. It was so tight that I barely needed to screw it back together again.
Hanging was the same as before, and I had no problems here. After a few days, I did notice an interesting phenomenal, where about an inch all around the edges the mirror you could see some warping.
I thought it might be from the gluing process, but the mastic is only on two vertical strips, and the apparent dissertation is on all sides.
Slotted angle iron wings attached to the side frame, ready for gluing to the mirror. Air conditioning foam strips provide an extra seal between the display and the frame.
Final installation with tempered glass. As I mentioned before, the LCD puts out a fair bit of heat. The mirror only fogs in the areas that extend beyond the LCD; here you can see the fog on the left of the mirror.
Neal Thomas wanted to use the mirror codebase as a weather station. Rather than covering it with a mirror, it would be a straight LCD.
He asked about being able to display a background image based on the current weather. I did some quick research and set up basic support for this by using a dictionary of arrays of images.
The dictionary is the different weather conditions from the Dark Sky API, while the array is specific images to display for the condition. If multiple images are provided, they are looped through randomly at a customizable interface.
Since the images may obscure the interface, there is also an option to darken the images through the config. By default, this feature is disabled by simply having empty arrays of images.
To enable it, you just have to find images fro each of the weather conditions and plug them in. Steps To make one of these, you need to acquire a few things and build some others yourself: You can test your speed with: Magic Mirror Website Customization I decided to make a few tweaks to the website, beyond just the normal configuration features above.
Added basic localization so that the clock and other times can be displayed in 12 or 24 hour mode ,as well as displaying temperatures in Celcius or Farenheit , with a configurable number of decimal places.
Time changes were done through moment. You need to create your own API key, which is very easy, and you get free requests per day, so I decided to get updates only every fifteen minutes instead of every minute to keep from abusing their service too badly.
I also unified the code that gets the weather so that I only do one fetch instead of two separate ones for the forecast and current conditions.
I wound up using the proxy. Since the timer was previously only restarted on success, this would mean that if there was any failure, the weather and RSS would never be updated again.
Re-arming the timer from the failure case fixes this. Inlined the RSS wrapper so that I could add a failure case.